Sultanahmet is probably exactly the area where most people get hungry at some point on their first Istanbul trip. Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Topkapı Palace, Basilica Cistern — it's all here. And of course the restaurants know that there are tourists here too. 😂

Where to eat around Sultanahmet, Sirkeci and Eminönü? Our personally tested restaurants — from köfte and balık ekmek to Orient Express history.
So the rule is: check the menu, check the prices, check the service charge. And don't automatically assume that everything right next to a landmark has to be bad. For the full overview, go back here.
Loti Restaurant — our very first Istanbul restaurant
This is a story I'll probably always tell. Our first Istanbul trip. Hotel in Aksaray. The lady at the hotel says: "Just walk down the street. You'll be at Hagia Sophia in 15 minutes." Yeah. No. 😂 After about 35 minutes we were still walking. Hungry kids. Hungry us. And at some point: Loti.
Our first restaurant meal in Istanbul. What do we order? Kebap? Mantı? Pide? No. Lasagna and schnitzel. 😂 To this day, this restaurant is tied to our very first time in Istanbul because of that. The food was really good. And sometimes a memory is just as important as any restaurant review.
- Address: Piyer Loti Cd. No:1, Fatih
- What we like there: our personal connection to it, but also just objectively good food
- Good for: a break after a lot of walking around the historic peninsula
- Price feel: €€
- Website: Loti Restaurant
- Good for: a break after a lot of walking around the historic peninsula
- Price feel: €€
- Our tip: if you don't necessarily want to eat Turkish – the international menu here is also solid
Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi Selim Usta — köfte without theatrics
Köfte, piyaz, maybe pilav. Done. And that's exactly why I like classics like this. Not everything always has to be reinvented. No edible flowers. No foam. No 14 components. 😂 If you want to eat classic köfte in Sultanahmet, this is one of the well-known historic addresses.
- Address: Divanyolu Cd. No:12, Fatih
- What we like there: classic köfte without any frills
- Price feel: €€
- Address: Divanyolu Cd. No:12, Fatih
- Instagram: @tarihisultanahmetkoftecisi1920
- Good for: classic köfte without frills, essentially unchanged since 1920
- Price feel: €€
- Our tip: order piyaz with it and don't forget the semolina helva at the end
The Han — food and watching traditional preparation
The Han is more touristy. But touristy doesn't automatically mean bad. What I found interesting: you can sometimes watch women rolling out dough, or preparing food in the traditional way. Especially with kids, I find that lovely. Suddenly food becomes more than just: "here's your plate."
- On our visit, a percentage service charge was added that we hadn't consciously planned for beforehand. So: check the bill, check the menu. Then there's no unpleasant surprise.
- What we like there: a glimpse into traditional preparation, lovely especially with kids
- Price feel: €€
- Address: Cankurtaran Mah., Alemdar Cd., Soğuk Çeşme Sk. No:26, Sultanahmet/Eminönü
- Good for: children who like to watch gözleme dough being rolled out by hand
- Price feel: €€
- Our tip: order the lamb dish in a clay pot – breaking it open at the table is a little experience in itself
Orient Express Restaurant — here the food was almost only half the story
This place hit me completely, emotionally. The station. The history. Novels. Arrivals. Farewells. People who came to Istanbul by train. People who perhaps started a new chapter here. I sat there and simply thought: Wow.
Of course, we also ate. And the menu was completely fine on our visit. You don't have to order some extremely expensive dish there just to be allowed to experience the place. The historic Sirkeci station opened in the late 19th century and is closely tied to the myth of the Orient Express.
- Online, the restaurant is currently sometimes listed as temporarily closed. Please check the current status again before your visit.
- Address: Hoca Paşa, Sirkeci İstasyon Cd. No:2, Fatih
- What we like there: the history of Sirkeci station and the Orient Express myth
- Good for: anyone who finds history just as important as the food itself
- Price feel: €€
You'll find more on places where history matters just as much as the food in our guide to special restaurants in Istanbul.
You'll find more about places where history counts as much as the food in our guide to special restaurants in Istanbul.
Tarihi Eminönü Derya Balıkçısı 1945 — balık ekmek belongs on the list at some point
Fish, bread, seagulls, ferries, the Galata Bridge, people. For me, this isn't a dish you need to compare to fine dining. It's simply: Istanbul. And that's exactly why balık ekmek eventually belongs to a trip, for me. According to its own history, Derya Balıkçısı looks back on decades of tradition and sits right in the Eminönü area on the Galata Bridge.
- Address: Ragıp Gümüşpala Cd., Galata Köprüsü No:2/3
- What we like there: balık ekmek right on the Galata Bridge, with seagulls and ferries as the backdrop
- Price feel: €
- Website: Derya Balıkçısı
- Website: To the website
- Instagram: @deryabalikekmek
- Good for: balık ekmek right at the Galata Bridge, with gulls and ferries as the backdrop
- Price feel: €
- Our tip: simply order at the stand and eat standing right by the water – that's part of it
My tip for restaurants in Sultanahmet & Eminönü
Don't automatically be afraid of touristy restaurants. But: check beforehand. What does it cost? Is service included? How big are the portions? What do other people order? And does it really have to be the most expensive dish? Often not.
Frequently asked questions
Should you expect tourist prices in Sultanahmet?
Yes, prices are often higher near the major landmarks. I'd always check the menu, prices, and any possible service charge beforehand.
Where's the best place to eat balık ekmek in Eminönü?
At Tarihi Eminönü Derya Balıkçısı 1945, right on the Galata Bridge — for us, the classic Istanbul experience with fish, bread and seagulls.
Is the Orient Express Restaurant still open?
Online it's currently sometimes listed as temporarily closed. Please check the current status before your visit.
We have personally visited every restaurant described in this guide. Any collaborations or paid placements are clearly marked as such. Our personal opinion remains independent of that.
– Amra


