Istanbul and food – I could probably run an entire blog just on that. As a family we're constantly trying things: street food, breakfast, fish, sweets, ordinary places and also really lovely restaurants.
My personal rules for restaurants in Istanbul: prices, menus, service charges, checking the bill, locals, kid-friendliness and street food.
After many visits we've settled on a few rules that work surprisingly well for us. They're not scientific – but they've saved us from a few pretty unnecessary surprises.
My first restaurant rule: I want to know the price before I eat
If I can't tell what something costs, I don't want to be surprised only after the meal. I'm on holiday, not at a price lottery. Of course there are traditional places or special situations where things aren't as standardized as back home. But in touristy areas I want to see clear prices.
Why I don't automatically find empty restaurants romantic
Of course an excellent restaurant can happen to be empty. But when a whole street is full of people and exactly one place is completely empty, I get suspicious. We like to orient ourselves by where locals eat. It's not a scientific quality model – but for us it has worked surprisingly often.
Checking the bill: normal, not paranoid
I look at the bill. Not because I assume everyone wants to cheat me, but because mistakes happen everywhere. I also check the menu beforehand for whether a service charge is announced.
An automatic 10, 15 or 20 percent service charge personally doesn't sit well with me. If it's stated transparently, I can decide whether to stay. I'm very happy to tip, especially when someone is warm and wonderful with our kids – but I want to decide myself how much.
Kid-friendliness: One of the reasons we love being in Turkey so much
What I really have to emphasize: we experience Turkey again and again as extremely kid-friendly. Of course everyone has an off day sometimes. But overall we experience an incredible amount of warmth towards children. As a mother that makes a huge difference to me. And if someone isn't having their friendliest day, then there's no Olympic-medal tip from me either. That's just how the world works.
Street food: once we almost ate our whole trip this way
One trip turned into almost a little street-food challenge for us. We tried as much as possible. A lot of it was fantastic, some things just weren't to our taste. And that's completely fine. Part of a holiday is trying something and afterwards saying together: "Interesting. Once was enough."
What I check with street food
- High turnover/foot traffic at the stand.
- Clean impression.
- Food is stored properly.
- Many locals buy there.
- Price is clear beforehand.
High class is allowed – but doesn't have to happen every night
Of course I also love a beautiful restaurant with a view. Istanbul really can do luxury dining well. But a Bosphorus view alone doesn't make good food. I'd always check reviews and the current menu, especially when a restaurant is heavily marketed to tourists.
What to eat in Istanbul – and how to choose restaurants sensibly
My restaurant rules come from experience. To turn this into a real food guide for yourself, you also need some orientation: What's typical, where is it worth it, and what should you watch out for?
Typical Turkish breakfast
A classic Turkish breakfast can consist of cheese, olives, tomatoes, cucumbers, eggs, bread, spreads, honey, kaymak and tea. In Istanbul there are both simple breakfast spots and very elaborate serpme kahvaltı spreads with lots of little bowls.
My tip: don't just go by Instagram looks. With very large breakfast platters, check beforehand whether it's charged per person and which extras are billed separately.
Street food many Istanbul travelers try
- Simit
- Balık Ekmek
- Kumpir
- Midye Dolma
- Kokoreç
- Döner / Dürüm
- Börek
- Lahmacun
- Islak Burger
- roasted chestnuts depending on the season
Of course taste is personal. That's exactly why I like articles that don't pretend everyone has to love everything.
Sweets and coffee
Baklava, künefe, lokum and Turkish coffee are staples for many. In very touristy spots, comparing prices pays off. You can't tell good quality automatically from the fanciest-looking shop window.
Where I especially like to look for restaurants
Kadıköy
For me one of the most exciting areas for food and markets. Lots of local options, plenty of choice, lively atmosphere.
Karaköy / Galata
Cafés, modern restaurants, breakfast, desserts and bars. Price level strongly mixed.
Beşiktaş
Young, lively, lots of quick and classic options.
Sultanahmet
Practical for sightseeing, but here I check prices and reviews especially carefully, because the area is heavily touristy.
Menu, prices and service charge
For me transparency is the bare minimum. Prices should be clearly visible. At fish restaurants, also ask whether it's billed by weight. On the menu, also check whether service, cover or other surcharges are already mentioned. For me, tipping is a voluntary reaction to good service – not something that should surprise me on the bill.
Allergies and intolerances
Anyone with serious allergies shouldn't rely solely on spontaneous translation. Save the relevant terms in Turkish beforehand and ask if unsure. For very serious allergies I'd additionally prepare a written card in Turkish.
Children in restaurants
Children are very welcome in many Turkish restaurants. Still, it's worth asking about a high chair, space for a stroller and smoking areas if that's relevant for you.
Food tour: when it makes sense
A good food tour can help at the start of a trip to get to know dishes and order more confidently afterward. I'd compare providers on group size, included samples, duration, neighborhoods and language.
My conclusion
No prices? No. Check the bill? Yes. Watch where locals eat? Very gladly. Read service surcharges beforehand. And above all: try things. Istanbul tastes different in every neighborhood.
– Amra
